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How Local Food Systems Support Sustainability and Food Access

How Local Food Systems Support Sustainability and Food Access

*Blog article by Churchill Northern Studies Centre

*Republished by permission with minor changes

Do you know where the food on your plate comes from? In many cases, our food travels a long way to get into our kitchens.

Photo: Churchill Northern Studies Centre

These food miles — the distance food travels from production to consumer — contribute significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, which are a major factor in climate change, and can also lead to reduced food freshness and nutrient loss over time. Additionally, large-scale industrial agriculture systems, while far-reaching, cannot make it everywhere; remote and marginalized communities often fall through the cracks, their residents left in food deserts and food swamps, without access to nutritious food.

Thankfully, local food systems can fill that gap — and promote environmental sustainability in agriculture, too! By fostering a closer connection between consumers and their food sources, local food systems not only reduce carbon footprints but also enhance community well-being and resilience. Here’s a closer look at how these local systems bring widespread benefits.READ MORE

Keeping a Garden Journal

Keeping a Garden Journal

By Brenda Evans, Master Gardener

 

If you are the type of person who keeps lists, agendas, or journals to stay organized, then chances are you already have a garden journal. Journaling in general is considered a healthy practice. A garden journal is a valuable tool to record ideas, plans, and observations of your garden to refer to at a future date. It eliminates stress and worry as once you’ve recorded your thoughts you can just relax, knowing that it’s okay if you forget them, they’ve already been filed for safekeeping.

 If you are considering starting a garden journal or upgrading to a different style of journal there are many options available. However, to ensure that the style you purchase will meet your needs, you should consider how you are going to use it. The amount of detail you want to include is up to you.READ MORE

Master Gardeners at Ronald McDonald House

Master Gardeners at Ronald McDonald House

By Lynne McCarthy and Lisa Renner, Master Gardeners

 

Ronald McDonald House Charity (RMHC), 62 Juno Street in Winnipeg, is a home away from home for rural Manitobans and out-of-province families with a child requiring treatment at a nearby hospital.

On September 14, 2022, RMHC Manitoba and its supporters celebrated the grand opening of its new Ronald McDonald House facility.

Photo: RMHC. Ronald McDonald House volunteers, master gardeners Lisa Renner and Lynne McCarthy.

Some years ago, a Manitoba Master Gardener intern, who worked at the original Ronald McDonald House on Bannatyne Avenue, began the conversation about creating a container garden in the courtyard with the help of members of the MMGA. At this time, Co-chair Diana Dhaliwal and Volunteer Director Dawn Hicks visited the house to ensure that there was scope for a project that included an educational component.

We, Lisa Renner, at that time a newly transferred MG from Ontario, and Lynne McCarthy, an intern who met Lisa at their study group meetings, partnered for the project and have volunteered for the Ronald McDonald House project since it began in 2017.

Photo: Lisa Renner. Raised beds.

The project included growing vegetables in the raised garden bed that was developed and beautifying the small, shady space with annuals and herbs grown in containers in order to create a welcoming atmosphere for the families. At times we were able to offer an activity for the children, like sprouting beans in a glass jar or carving pumpkins. The work was largely done without a budget. Containers were either there or recycled, plants were donated by a nursery, fellow MGs, and ourselves. For additional, usually small expenses we were readily reimbursed.READ MORE

What’s That on My Flower? (Part 1)

What’s That on My Flower? (Part 1)

A simple guide to bees and things that look like bees
By Betsy Thorsteinson

There are hundreds of species of bees, wasps, and flower flies, and often it is not easy to identify which is which when you see them on your flowers, but they all do an important job, and our world could not go on without them. This is a basic guide to tell them apart.

WASPS vs BEES

Wasps visit flowers for nectar, but unlike bees, who are pollen-eaters, wasps are hunters and eat other insects. The wasp and bee illustrated below were photographed in the middle of May, both seeking food from early-blooming plants in my garden. They both have four wings. The wasp is social and lives in a hive constructed of paper, and the bee is solitary and constructs its nest in the ground.

READ MORE

Volunteering at Fort Whyte Alive

Volunteering at Fort Whyte Alive
By Judy Heppelle, Master Gardener

My volunteer role at Fort Whyte Alive (FWA) came about by chance. In 2010, I sat beside Jane Zoutman at one of the required classes for the Master Gardener (MG) designation. We started talking, Jane telling me about Fort Whyte and her various ‘jobs’ there. At the time, she had just finished cleaning out and revamping the two small garden ponds, “one heck of a smelly, messy job”. To learn more, read Jane’s “Building a Pond Garden.”

She asked me where I was volunteering. I said, “Nowhere, I just want to take these courses; they sound interesting.” She encouraged me to go talk to the volunteer coordinator at FWA. I did just that, had my interview, must have passed the muster, and started volunteering in the gardens the next summer.

There are dozens of volunteer opportunities at FWA – animal tracking with young students, canoeing, Bannock making, Goose Flight attendants in the fall, snowshoe trekking in the winter, and more, but gardening was what I wanted to do and what I did ­­– weeding, raking, mulching, trimming, pruning, and planting in the gardens and yard around the two main buildings, the Alloway Centre and the Interpretive Centre.READ MORE

The Apiaceae or Carrot Family: The Good, the Bad, and the Dangerous

The Apiaceae or Carrot Family: The Good, the Bad, and the Dangerous
By Linda Dietrick, Master Gardener

Eastern black swallowtail nectaring on catmint flowers. Photo: Linda Dietrick

I hope that, for most of you, finding an Eastern black swallowtail caterpillar on your dill or parsley or carrot tops is cause for joy. Within a few weeks, those greenish-yellow caterpillars with the black and yellow stripes will crawl away, pupate, and emerge as one of our most spectacular butterflies. With their black wings spotted yellow, orange, and blue, and the tailed hindwings that give them their name, they are unmistakeable.

Like most butterflies, black swallowtails have specific larval food needs – in this case, plants in the family Apiaceae or, to use the older family name, Umbelliferae. The latter name comes from the fact that most members of the family have umbel-shaped inflorescences, with flower stalks of nearly equal length arising from a common center and forming what looks like a flat umbrella. Think dill flowers. Many kinds of insects feed on these flowers. The foliage, however, contains toxic compounds called furanocoumarins that black swallowtail caterpillars have uniquely evolved to tolerate.READ MORE

“Growing under Cover” with Niki Jabbour

SAVE THE DATE!
“Growing under Cover” with Niki Jabbour

MMGA Presentation on Saturday, March 23, 2024
11:00 am CST via Zoom

Tickets available on our website in the new year
Members $10, non-members $15
Watch for registration information on our home page

Join award-winning author Niki Jabbour as she shares her techniques for growing more food, reducing pest problems, and dealing with unpredictable weather in her Nova Scotia vegetable garden. With the special challenges of Manitoba’s climate in mind, she’ll spotlight a wide variety of season extenders like shade cloth, row cover, cold frames, and polytunnels, as well as show you how to use garden covers to prevent damage from deer, flea beetles, and cabbage worms. She’ll also share some of her stand-out crops and varieties for fall and even winter harvesting.

Niki Jabbour

About Niki Jabbour

Niki Jabbour is the best-selling, award-winning author of four books including The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener and Growing Under Cover. She’s a two-time winner of the prestigious American Horticultural Society Book Award, and has been a radio host for 16 years. Find Niki on SavvyGardening.com.

Growing Calendula officinalis for Year-round Sunshine

Growing Calendula officinalis for Year-round Sunshine

By Emily Glover, Master Gardener Intern

You will always find Calendula officinalis growing in my garden. I included calendula in my first garden on a whim without realizing it would become one of my favourite plants of all time.

I love a little chaos in my garden so I let it self-sow wherever it pleases — little canary yellow, tangerine, and amber stars haphazardly settled between the tomatoes, cucumbers, and beans in my vegetable plot.

Calendula is a powerhouse plant in both the garden and home and can be beneficial in your life even outside of our short growing season.

In the garden

Calendula. Photo: Emily Glover

Calendula, sometimes referred to as its less glamorous common name pot marigold, is a member of the Asteraceae family. Despite the name, calendula is not the same as the other common garden plant marigold (Tagetes spp.) It has a long history of cultivation, going back to at least the 12th century. Because of this, its exact origins are unknown but are believed to be southern Europe and the eastern Mediterranean.

In zone 3, you can expect self-sowed calendula to start popping up sometime in mid-spring with blooms in full effect from July to as late as October, depending on the weather. Calendula is easy to start indoors and transplant if you’re eager for earlier blooms.READ MORE

‘Planet Soil’ Film Review

NEXT SHOWING IN WINNIPEG: FEBRUARY 3, 2024

Planet Soil Film Review
By Darlene Belton, Master Gardener

On November 18, a sell-out audience of privileged gardeners and friends participated in the premiere showing in Canada of the internationally acclaimed, award-winning documentary, Planet Soil. Filmed in the Netherlands, the 77-minute film explores the intricate connections linking the staggeringly abundant life beneath the soil with that above to create and sustain the mysterious systems of our living planet.

The journey of Planet Soil to Winnipeg’s Cinematheque theatre began with the team of dedicated filmmakers who created Planet Soil, leading to an August 19, 2023 Winnipeg Free Press review article by MMGA co-founder and journalist Colleen Zacharias, who described the extraordinary filming innovations that brought microscopic soil creatures to the big screen. Colleen’s article spurred Sophie Munro of the Charleswood Garden Club to email her extensive gardening network to stimulate interest in bringing the film to Manitoba. Two horticultural organizations responded – the Manitoba Horticultural Association (MHA) and the Manitoba Master Gardener Association (MMGA). Contact was made with the filmmakers, Mark Verkerk and Ignas van Schaik, who were pleased to hear of our local interest. Plans took off rapidly and the two organizations co-hosted this event so important for the knowledge base of all gardeners.

Besides revealing miraculous soil life never before seen in this intensity on screen, the film is beautiful. Brilliant use of time-lapse photography shows us the lace-like explosion of fungal growth over four to five months in seconds as the narrative explains how mazes of threadlike microscopic fungal hyphae permeate the soil to find nutrients to bring to plant roots in exchange for the sugars from photosynthesis that fungi need to survive but cannot produce themselves. We watch as the excretions of earthworms and nematodes lubricate the soil as they burrow to help create aggregates that allow for the passage of water and air to sustain smaller life forms. We see a mole blindly tunneling to find earthworms and soil-dwelling insects as it plays out its role in the soil food web. And we see more, much more.

Probably as important as the extraordinary cinematography, the film offers hope, hope that is so needed in our climate-stressed era. We see some regenerative projects in Europe that utilize this emerging science-based knowledge of living soil as the very foundation of all land-based life. The projects often involve children who learn to appreciate, not fear, the soil’s unfamiliar or strange-looking small creatures.

For those who missed the inaugural screening and due to the acclaim of viewers, another showing will be hosted by the MMGA and the MHA on Saturday, February 3rd, 2024, at 12:00 noon, also at the Cinematheque theatre (tickets available via the MMGA and MHA websites in early January). Like the first event, this showing will be followed by a Zoom Q&A with Mark Verkerk, director of Planet Soil.

The Zoom Q&A at the November viewing was a surprise for me – and was a significant bonus, showing that our Covid lockdown years managing Zoom meetings were not wasted. As I had to leave early, MMGA member Lisa Renner took notes for me from the Q&A, referred to below.

Highlights of the live Q&A session with Mark Verkerk

Explaining that he was not a biologist, Mark responded to the first question that the film missed aspects of the complex relationship of the soil, air, and water, by saying that Planet Soil’s goal was intended to be a first level, graphically visual introduction to present how significantly below-ground activity impacts life above ground. He added that there could be 100 more films made on this topic. Mark described the technical challenges of capturing the enormous range of soil creatures, from earthworms to bacteria, and then demonstrating their interrelationships. Microscopes and a specially developed lens system created depth for the colourful three-dimensional shots.

Electron microscopes were not used, Mark said, because this requires organisms to be killed and their intention was to represent live interactions. The filmmakers showed admirable respect for their small subjects. For example, fresh soil plugs were placed in containers with holes to permit filming, then the soil and its living contents were returned to the exact extraction sites.

Special methodology was used to keep fungi alive and its growth filmable over the three-to-four-month period of its beautiful, intricate expansion to present in mere seconds through time lapse photography. Recordings of the ‘sound of soil’ were done by musician and recording artist Cosmo Sheldrake. The captured sounds, mostly beyond unassisted human hearing, are increasingly tapped into by scientists to assess levels of soil biodiversity.

MMGA emeritus member Lenore Linton captured the sentiments of many in the audience with her heartfelt thank you to Mark and the film team for always relating what happens below ground to its impact above ground, plus, among much else, to our duty as gardeners ‘to give back’ when we take from the earth. She referred to the scene where beet leaves were left on the ground to nurture the soil, adding that she even eats the beet leaves!

To this remark, Director Mark Verkerk generously replied, “But if you are composting, you are giving back.”

“Leaf” It in the Garden

“Leaf” It in the Garden

Using leaves and leaf mulch in your garden

By Virginia Stephenson, Master Gardener

PHOTO: V. Stephenson. Leaf mulch as a natural uniform ground cover.

Traditionally, when fall rolls around we grab up our rakes and leaf bags, gather up all of our leaves, and dispose of them. But if you have a look at nature, where resources tend not to be wasted, you will see all the leaves lying in a carpet on the forest floor. This carpet of leaves protects young and tender plants during winter, provides food and shelter to small creatures, and eventually returns nutrients to the soil as the leaves decompose. Leaves and leaf mulch can do all these things in your garden, and more.

What is leaf mulch?

Leaf mulch is nothing more than leaves chopped up and possibly mixed with some grass clippings or other plant material. The easiest way to produce leaf mulch is with your lawn mower. Instead of raking up your leaves, collect them with your lawn mower, bagging them as you go, and, presto, you have leaf mulch.

Why mulch your leaves instead of leaving them whole as they are in the forest?

When you mulch your leaves, they become much denser and take up less space if you are storing them for later use. Mulch is easier to handle and spread in the garden and provides a more compact and uniform cover than whole leaves. As the leaves are already cut into small pieces, they decompose more quickly, returning their nutrients to the soil sooner than they would if they were whole.

When would I use whole leaves and when would I use leaf mulch?

If and when you mulch your leaves will depend on when and for what purpose you are using them.

If you are covering your garden perennials with leaves for protection in winter, you may wish to use whole leaves, as they will provide a looser cover, which will allow air to circulate, and make it easier for the plants to push through in spring. If you have access to oak leaves, they are excellent for this purpose, as they are quite fibrous and do not break down easily. They are therefore less likely to become a sodden mass weighing down your plants, making it difficult for them to emerge. When I have covered my perennials with leaves in the fall, I will often go out in the spring when it is getting warmer and the plants are ready to emerge and pull the leaf cover off the plants, so that the heat and light of the sun can reach them. I will, however, leave a wall of leaves around them, and possibly a few dry oak leaves partially covering them, to protect the emerging plants from any late frost.

If you wish to use your leaves as an organic fertilizer and benefit from their nutrients, then mulch them in the fall and spread them over your garden beds. In vegetable gardens or annual flower beds, they can then be gently incorporated into the top few centimetres of soil when you prepare it for planting in the spring. You can also pull back the mulch to create seed rows or openings for seedlings and leave the mulch on the surface of the surrounding soil. In perennial beds or shrub borders, spread the mulch around the plants and simply leave it there to decompose.

If you are interested in providing food and shelter for the small creatures in your garden, then use whole leaves to create a loose layer of leaf litter in your garden beds. Birds, small mammals, amphibians, and insects will all enjoy and benefit from this leaf litter.

PHOTO: V. Stephenson. Leaf mulch in foundation beds.

In my garden, I use both whole leaves and leaf mulch. In the fall, I gather the whole leaves from my lawn and spread them over my flower beds for winter protection. In the spring, when the garden is emerging (perennials), or ready to be planted (annuals), I remove the layer of leaf litter and run it through the lawn mower to create leaf mulch. The leaf mulch is then returned to the garden to cover the soil around the plants.

Note that the mulch should not be touching nor piled against the plant stems, as this may keep them too moist and cause them to mildew or rot.

What are the benefits of using leaf mulch in my garden?

Using leaf mulch to cover the soil around the plants in your garden beds has a variety of benefits both practical and aesthetic.

PHOTO: V. Stephenson. Leaves at the base of clematis to keep the roots cool.

Soil moisture: Leaf mulch will help to retain moisture in the soil. By protecting the surface of the soil from direct sunlight and exposure to hot dry air, you can reduce moisture loss from evaporation, keeping more moisture in the soil for longer periods. This retention of moisture can provide a variety of benefits to you as a gardener:

  • By retaining moisture, the mulch helps ensure that more of the water that you put in your garden goes into your plants. As a result, you may find that you need to water less often and can save money on water over the course of the summer.
  • We all know that the soil in containers tends to dry out very quickly and needs constant watering. Lyndon Penner, the head gardener at Riding Mountain National Park, is a big fan of mulch, and recommends using it in all your containers. A good layer of leaf mulch on the soil in your containers can help to keep the soil cooler and moister than if it was bare soil.
  • Some plants, like clematis, need to have their roots in cool soil and others, like astilbe, do best in moist soil. A layer of leaf mulch around these plants can provide these conditions and help them thrive.
  • The soil under the mulch stays soft and moist, which makes it much easier to dig and plant in than bare soil which has dried out and hardened.
  • Our clay-based soils are very prone to surface drying and cracking. The mulch layer covering the soil surface and protecting it from drying can help to prevent soil cracking.
  • Our clay soils, as they dry, are also prone to shrinkage with the result that in hot, dry weather the soil may pull away from your foundations. A thick layer of mulch in any garden bed against your foundations can help to keep the moisture in the soil and help prevent the deep drying which results in the soil pulling away from the foundations. Note that you do have to put the moisture in to start with and you should water your foundations in hot dry weather.

Weeds: Mulch will help to keep the weeds down by preventing weed seeds from touching the soil and germinating, and by keeping weed sprouts covered so they don’t get sun.

Fertilizer: Leaf mulch is an organic fertilizer, which will return nutrients to the soil. It is free, readily available, and easy to use.

Backsplash: A layer of leaf mulch on the soil around your plants can prevent mud from splashing up onto your plants during watering. This is a plus in terms of aesthetics and can also help to prevent the plants from being infected by soil-born fungi.

Aesthetics: Aside from preventing unsightly cracked soil, a layer of leaf mulch can provide a uniform and finished but natural look to your garden. It does not draw attention away from your plants to itself as some commercial mulch may. Empty areas between plants also look more natural and do not look as empty as bare soil tends to.

Are there cautions or counter indications for using leaf mulch?

Dust: Working with leaf mulch can be quite dusty, so you might want to wear a mask when bagging or spreading it, especially if you have respiratory issues.

Soggy leaves: Tree leaves are the best source for leaf mulch. Avoid using plant leaves which break down and become soggy after being frozen, as these can weigh down your plants or may cause them to rot.

Diseased or infested leaves: If your leaf source is diseased or infested with fungus or insects, avoid using these leaves to make leaf mulch, as you do not want to infect other areas or plants in your garden.

Grass clippings: If you gather and mulch your leaves using a lawn mower you are likely to have some grass clippings mixed in your mulch. This is not a problem if you let the grass clippings dry before bagging the mulch, as you do not want them composting in the bag. Avoid adding extra grass clippings, as too much grass can form a solid mat on your soil surface which can repel water and make it hard to get the water into the soil.

Wet soil conditions: If your soil is very wet in the spring, you may want to let it dry out somewhat before applying your mulch. The point of the mulch is to keep the moisture in the soil, but there is such a thing as too much moisture, which can be harmful to plants.

No leaves: If you do not have trees and leaves of your own, ask a friend or neighbour, who will probably happily donate as many leaves as you want from their spring or fall cleanup.

So, give it a go. Don’t throw away your leaves and see what leaves and leaf mulch can do for your gardening efforts.

FEATURED PHOTO: V. Stephenson.